Lake Atitlan is the deepest lake in Central America. It is 50 kilometers (31 miles) west of Antigua in the Guatemalan Highlands. On the shores of Atitlan are several villages accessible only by boat where Mayan culture and traditional dress are still the norm. The largest town in the area is Panajachel. In the 1960s, it was a Mecca for the hippy generation, but today, Panajachel is considered a gateway to living Mayan culture and is a major destination for tourists visiting Guatemala.
Our ‘Adventure in Traveling’ began with a crowded 2-hour van ride along some very windy roads that ended with a descent down a steep mountainside full of switchbacks. With every turn, the view of the lake became more beautiful and I became more nauseous. It was a relief to finally step onto the streets of Panajachel.
The town is modern and there are plenty of hotels and restaurants to comfort a weary traveler. The streets are lined with market stands and vendors that often use some aggressive sales techniques, but general, a firm ‘No thank you’ is enough to keep them at bay.
After settling into a comfortable hotel along the main street, we walked to the lakefront. There we found a water taxi to take us to Santiago Atitlan, the capitol of the Tzutujil Maya nation. The lake crossing was pleasant and it gave us an opportunity to see the quaint traditional lifestyle of the people who take their living from the lake.
Santiago itself is old and worn, and dominated by a large catholic church. What makes the town special are its people, brightly dressed and smiling. Along the main street you can find the shops of weavers and other artisans using century's old traditional methods.
This is also were you will find the Maximon cult. Maximon is part Mayan god and part Catholic saint. He comes out once a year during Semana Santa when a procession through the streets takes him to a new home with one of his attendants. The locals believe that he will intercede with the gods on your behalf if you leave him an offerings of cigarettes or alcohol.
The following day we headed north to visit the market of Chichicastenango, held every Thursday and Sunday. It is a big, bright, beautiful and colorful market surrounding the church of Saint Thomas. You can buy almost anything, but most stands deal in textiles. For any high-priced items, bartering is not only recommended it’s a necessity.
The highlands of Guatemala are beautiful and special. They are full of interesting people, cultures and traditions. It is a place worthy of discovery in your next ‘Adventure in Traveling’.
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