Adventure in Guatemala (Part 3) – The Pacaya Volcano

The Pacaya volcano rises to an elevation of 2,552 meters (8,373 ft) and is one of three volcanoes that ring the city of Antigua, Guatemala.  After being dormant for a century, it erupted violently in 1965 and has been in a continuous low-level (Strombolian) eruption ever since.  It has become a bit of a tourist attraction, but for good reason.  How often do most of us get to experience an active volcano?  Climbing the Pacaya volcano is a rare adventure.  If you’re traveling in Guatemala, you shouldn’t miss it.

There are two trails up the Pacaya volcano. The trail followed by most tour groups starts at the official park entrance in San Francisco de Sales. The park maintains it well.  It has rest stops, trash receptacles and primitive restrooms.  Guardabosques (rangers) are on patrol during the day.  There is safe parking and a small kiosk where you can buy needed drinks and other refreshments after the hike.  The second trail, starts from a radio tower complex on the flank of Cerro Chino.  It is a more difficult ascent and you will still need to go to the main entrance first to pay your park fees.  I‘ve heard it is the more picturesque route, but I haven’t tried it.
 

It took an hour for the van to drive from Antigua to the main entrance.  From the parking lot, we had to run a gauntlet of children selling walking sticks and then local men wanting to take us up on horseback.  The truth be told, a walking stick would have been useful, and if you don’t feel fit enough for the climb, the horses are a good way not to miss the sights.  

After paying our park fees, we had to wait until a moderately sized group had formed.  Then, a park guide joined us, gave us a few safety instructions and led us to the trailhead.

The path went steeply uphill, past farms and forest, through a meadow and eventually onto volcanic rock and sand.  This is where the climb really started.  The rock was shape and the sand was loose.  I tended to slide back with every step.  A good walking stick would’ve helped to steady my footing.  Walking uphill this way is tiring, so go slow and take the time to look at the beautiful scenery.  You’ll know you’re close when the ground gets warm and the air smells of rotting eggs.  Then, you’ll see large sulfur covered vents billowing steam and rock tubes carrying molten lava.

 
Up and down, the hike will take around four hours.  The guide will be with you the entire time, and he’ll do his best to answer questions.  The problem is that many of them only have a limited English vocabulary.  Don’t hold that against them, they are knowledgeable and helpful.  After all, you’re in Guatemala.  Ask him in Spanish.