Adventures in Borneo (Part 6) – Snorkeling in Lankayan

Lankayan is part of  the 460 square kilometer Sugud Islands Marine Conservation Area, a beautiful environment of small islands ringed by coral sand beaches, seagrass beds, shallow sandy flats and numerous coral reefs.  The island rests in the middle of sea turtle and whale shark migration routes and is just a 1.5-hour boat ride from Sandakan.
 
There are 23 bungalows on the island, all are beachfront and within a few steps of a pristine coral reef.  Admittedly, this was a higher-end stay than we would have normally considered, but it was quite the ‘Adventure in Traveling’ and the experience outweighed the cost.

The jetty at Lankayan

The trip from Sandakan over the open Sulu Sea can be choppy, but you’ll get plenty of fresh air.  The boat arrives at the dive house, about 100 meters away from the beach at the end of a long jetty.  If you don’t have dive or snorkeling equipment, you can borrow it here, but you’ll be required to leave a small cash deposit.  This is also where all dive trips start and end.

In our experience, one can best explore a coral reef in water less than 10 meters deep, so we prefer to snorkel rather than scuba dive.  With the reef just meters away from our bungalow, we were able to enjoy it at leisure, sunbathing on the beach whenever we were tired of swimming.
 

The colors of the reef are brilliant, and the varied and numerous species that inhabit the area are staggering.  In one hour we saw black-tipped shark, moray eel, cuddle fish, scorpion fish and a Hawksbill sea turtle, as well as numerous different species of triggerfish, parrotfish, coral and so much more.

There is a resident biologist on the island.  Her primary concern is to protect the eggs of the Green and Hawksbill sea turtles that nest on the island, but she will also help you identify any species living on the reef.  There are patrols on the island that watch for new turtle nests.  When discovered, she removes the eggs and takes them to a hatchery for protection.  On our second night, we were able to accompany a clutch of hatchlings for their release.

If you’ve been exploring the region for a while, Lankayan is a great place to break from your adventures for a few worry free days.  Since equipment is readily available on the island, there is no need to carry masks, fins and snorkels on the rest of your travels.  Just bring a good sunscreen.

Adventures in Borneo (Part 5) – Sandakan, Sukau and the Sepilok Orangutan Center

We flew from Kota Kinabalu to the port city of Sandakan, the former capital of British North Borneo.  Although, there are local places of interest, tourists use the region primarily as a gateway into the rainforests of Northeast Borneo. 

We took a day to see the highlights of Sandakan. The Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple is beautifully ornate.   The house of Agnes Keith, author of ‘Land Below the Wind’ and ‘Three Came Home’, took us back to post World War II Borneo.  In addition, Kampung Buli Sim Sim is a charming stilt fishing village on the original site of the town.

The next morning, we headed 25 kilometers west to the Sepilok Orangutan Center.  Since 1964, it has taken-in orphaned orangutans.  The center has cared, raised, and when possible, released the adult animals back into the rainforest.  The rehabilitation center is one of the best known in the world, and deservedly so.  As a way of raising money, the Sepilok Orangutan Center gives tours in the mornings and afternoons when they put out food for the semi-wild adolescents.  There is a long catwalk leading to the feeding platforms, but be wary of the many macaques along the way.  When the young orangutans come in from the surrounding rainforest it can get a little wild.

Sandakan Boat Docks

In the afternoon, we drove back to the city to catch a boat heading up the Kinabatangan River to the Sukau Rainforest Lodge.  It was an enjoyable 2.5-hour trip in a 12-passenger water taxi.  Along the riverbanks, we passed stilt villages, saw proboscis monkeys, and stopped to watch wild orangutans feeding in the treetops.

Along the Kinabatangan River

The lodge offers morning and evening longboat safaris along the river and its many tributaries.  The accommodations are simple, but this is more than offset by the beautiful surroundings.  Each morning and late afternoon, we explored the rainforest by longboat.

Some Sights of Sukau

We saw countless macaques and proboscis monkey, but also water monitors, snakes, hornbills, and many other bird species.  Some guests at the lodge saw a herd of jungle elephant.  We tried to follow their trail, but alas, all we saw were trampled reeds.  Nevertheless, our time in the rainforest was truly an adventure in traveling.

Adventures in Borneo (Part 4) – Climbing Mount Kinabalu

Mount Kinabalu National Park covers an area of 754 square kilometers on the eastern coast of Sabah.  At its center is Mount Kinabalu, which at 4,095.2 meters, is the highest mountain in Southeast Asia.  The park is well maintained with good accommodations and worth visiting even if you’re not planning to climb.  It is home to many rare orchid and pitcher plant species, as well as the Rafflesia with its enormous flowers.

    

Our Adventure in traveling began with an afternoon flight from Miri to Kota Kinabalu.  We stayed in the city that night, but early the next morning, drove the 90 kilometers to Mount Kinabalu National Park.  There we had a pleasant day walking with park rangers along some of the lower trails, had a good night’s sleep in a well appointed lodge, and the next morning, ate a leisurely breakfast.  

Plants of Mount Kinabalu National Park

Our plan was to climb the mountain at a slow pace over 2 days, spending the night at the Laban Rata guesthouse (3273meters).  We arrived at park headquarters at 10:30.  There, we met our guide and did a last check of our packs before taking the 1.5-kilometer minivan ride to the trailhead at Timpohon gate.  Unceremoniously, we moved onto the trail to join the many other groups that had been leaving since early morning.

The first part of the trail is an easy walk, but it gets progressively more difficult with plenty of stairs to climb.  For the most part, the way is steep, but well shaded, and there are shelters every kilometer or so where you can replenish your water bottles. 
 

  

At around 3000 meters the forest opens up to some beautiful views.  Shortly after, you will see the Laban Rata guesthouse.  The accommodation is dormitory style and the bathrooms are communal.  There is a buffet style dining room on the main floor where meals are served and drinks are sold throughout the day. 

Our summit day started with a 2 AM wake-up, a light breakfast, and a quick exit back onto the trail.  The night was frosty and we needed our cold weather gear.  There are more steps that eventually end on the mountain’s rock face.  From the tree line to the summit, the trek becomes more of a climb.  The rock is vast, exposed to the wind and can be very slick.  There are anchored ropes that we used to pull ourselves up some of the more difficult sections, but all went well.  Along with many others, we were on the summit for sunrise.

Thirty minutes later, it was time to leave.  It took a few hours to get back to Laban Rata where we ate a huge breakfast before returning to Timpohon gate in the late afternoon.

Adventures in Borneo (Part3) - Gunung Mulu National Park and The Pinnacles

Gunung Mulu National Park is famous for its caves and limestone formations hidden within Borneo’s lush tropical rainforest.  At its heart sits the 2377-meter high sandstone pinnacle, Gunung Mulu.  The park has at least 183 miles of explored caves and several good hiking trails within an area of 529 square kilometers.

Getting to Gunung Mulu isn’t easy.  The fastest way, is to take the 30-40 minute flight from Miri, but if you have the time, you can get there by riverboat and chartered longboat in about 12 hours.  Telling you this may be a disservice.  We have heard complaints of frequent problems and delays when traveling by boat.  It may be the river route is too much of the wrong kind of adventure.   Also, be aware the park and its surroundings have few accommodations, so it’s best if you book a room before you arrive.

We took the first flight out of Miri and spent the rest of day with our Mulu guide touring the open caves. We explored the many limestone formations in Lang’s cave and stood at the center of  the Sarawak Chamber.  At 600 m by 415 m and 80 m high, it is the largest known cave chamber in the world.  That evening, we sat at the bat observatory and waited for the nightly exodus of some 3 million bats, but we were there on one of those rare occasions when it didn’t happen. 

For us, this was a chance to at least see the caves before heading into the park on a three day trek to the Pinnacles.  If you are interested in caving, you can check with Gunung Mulu National Park for rated spelunking
expeditions.

The following day started with a three hour longboat trip upriver.  Then it was a 5 hour hike through leech infested jungle to camp 5, the ranger station where we would spend the night. It was mid-afternoon when we arrived, so we had plenty of time to explore, relax and talk to other hikers.  Everyone we met was passing through on the Headhunter’s trail.  They were  all a little too impressed we were doing the pinnacle climb, which made us worried.

The next morning we started our hike to the Pinnacles at six o’clock.  The terrain was steep.  The trail had a few switchbacks, but it was clear and wide.  About 30 minutes later conditions changed.  The path became a trail of wet jagged rocks.  I immediately slipped and cut the palm of my hand.  The next few hours, we spent rock hopping until finally the trail leveled.  We thought we had made it, but as it turned out, we had just reached the base of the rock formations that cap the mountain.   We still had another one and a half hours of ladders on wet cliff faces, planks over deep chasms and the occasional leap of faith to the next footing.


By eleven o’clock, we had made it.  The sight of hundreds of stone blades towering out of the jungle was inspiring, but short-lived.  After a packed lunch, we needed to head back.  The Pinnacle climb is one of those treks where going down actually takes longer than climbing up and is somewhat more strenuous.  It was a hard slog, but we made it back to camp just as the sun was setting.



If you plan to trek in Gunung Mulu National Park here is some advice:
1. Take along gloves to protect your hands from the sharp rock.
2. Carry as much drinking water as you can.  You will want every drop of it.
3. Everyone you deal with will be expecting a tip. Bring plenty of small bills.

Adventures in Borneo (Part 2) - Batang Ai, Nanga Sumpa and the Iban People

Located 250 kilometers west of Kuching, Batang Ai National Park was established in 1991 around a 24 square kilometer man-made lake dammed in the early part of the 1980s.  Just outside the park, along the Ulu Ai, is one of the traditional communal homes of the Iban headhunters, the Nanga Sumpa longhouse.  For 2 nights, we were their guests.  During that time, we talked for hours over shared bottles of homemade rice beer, learned some of the tribe’s weaving techniques and were privileged witnesses to an Iban wedding.

 Longboats and the lake on Batang Ai

Our travel adventure started with an uneventful 4-hour drive from Kuching.  Once at the lake, we loaded our longboat, headed across the water to the mouth of the Ulu Ai, and began the arduous journey upriver.  Its shallow waters made the going difficult.  In some areas, the pilot lifted the motor and poled us along, and when that didn’t work, we got out and pushed.  We traveled past boulders and through logjams, eventually reaching Nanga Sumpa in the late afternoon.

 Poling up the Ulu Ai

Nanga Sumpa is not a display for tourists.  It is a working collective of some 30 families living in a communal house the length of a football field in the middle of the rainforest.  They only allow tourists to visit in small numbers.  For the most part, tourists do not sleep in the longhouse but stay in a rustic and minimal lodge nearby.  It is really no more that a collection of shacks with shared ablutions and a kitchen.  For us, the accommodation wasn’t important.  We were there to meet the Iban.

 The Nanga Sumpa 

Longhouse

The Iban living at Nanga Sumpa do not wear costumes, and most have little to do with visitors.  By tradition, when you first enter the longhouse you are introduced to the chief elder and are expected to present him with a small gift (cash is always acceptable).  He will then invite you to sit on a mat on the floor.

 Our Guide with a Bottle of Homemade

Rice Beer

Within minutes of sitting down, we had several people joining us; some carried old plastic drink bottles filled with homemade rice beer.  Few spoke any English, so we depended on our guide to translate.  As the bottles of rice beer passed from person to person (don’t expect your own glass), we spoke about American politics, movies, and music.  They told us about employment and the economy of Malaysia, and as the day drew to a close, the old men reminisced about the glory days of headhunting and their many tattoos.

 The Communal Room in The Longhouse

The next morning we traveled farther upriver to swim in the pools of the Enseluai waterfall, and upon returning, one of the tribe’s teenagers showed us around the longhouse.  It turned out, he had a collection of American rock albums, from which he learned his English.  Needless to say, the conversation was comical, but he did teach us about longhouse etiquette.  Here are the two most important rules:

1. Don’t take anyone’s picture without asking first.
2. It is impolite not to drink when someone offers you rice beer.

 Poling to the Enseluai 

waterfall

In the afternoon, we rested on mats, drank more rice beer and watched the women at their weaving.  We tried to make a small mat, but neither of us had the dexterity to do a good job.

 Weaving new sitting mats

That evening, the chief elder had invited us to a longhouse wedding.  It was really more of a contract negotiation behind closed doors.  Occasionally, someone would come out with an update.  Our guide explained to us that marriages only occurred between couples living in different longhouses.  A prospective groom would live with the prospective bride’s family while they got to know one another.  Then, if they decided to marry, it was a temporary agreement that either party could annul in the first year.

 Cooking the Wedding Feast in Green Bamboo

Eventually, the happy couple appeared along with their parents and community elders.  That’s when the party started.  There was plenty of singing, dancing, food and bowl after bowl of rice beer.  The party was still going strong when we left and the noise continued until morning.

Adventures in Borneo (Part 1) – Arriving in Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

In the South China Sea covered by lush tropical rainforest sits the Island of Borneo.  Most of the island belongs to Indonesia, but the north (with the exception of Brunei) is part of Malaysia.  The island has beautiful seascapes, Rugged Mountains and lush jungles.  Orangutans, proboscis monkeys, hornbills and jungle elephants are all indigenous species.  It is the home of some of the strangest plant life on the planet, including pitcher plants, orchids and the meter-wide flowers of the Rafflesia. 

Yet for all its beauty and wonder, it is not the paradise we had hoped it would be.  In the more populated areas, there is plenty of rubbish and traffic.  The cities are congested and most of the architecture is neither old-world nor modern.  There are some exceptions, but in the cities, we saw mainly concrete block building covered in worn paint crowded between high-rises. 

 

The Streets of Kuching

My point in telling you this is not to put you off, but rather to paint the complete picture.  Borneo is full of incredible adventures, but like most worthwhile things, you have to go find them.  If you want to visit Borneo, here is some hard-won advice that may help you on your way.

• We have learned over the years that making definite plans for an entire trip was usually a costly mistake, but this time we did it anyway. When we arrived in Kuching, the capital city of Sarawak, jetlagged after flying halfway around the world, we were grateful for the hotel reservation and the opportunity for sleep.  However, the following day, we discovered the streets along the Sarawak River lined with tour companies.  We could have saved a bundle by booking with one of them instead of at home.  My advice is to book a hotel for the first few days, but make all your other travel plans after you arrive.

 

The Sarawak River

• When you have the time, it’s always nice to take the first few days to acclimatize. Around Kuching, there are several day trips worth taking while you’re adjusting.  
• Kubah National Park is about an hour’s drive.  You’ll have to take a cab and the driver will probably want to be your guide, but once there you really don’t need one.  Although, it’s nice to know there’s a cab waiting to return you to the city.  There is a well-marked trail that will take you through a small patch of rainforest, passed a waterfall, and if you’re lucky, by a troop of proboscis monkeys.
• Mount Santubong is about 45 minutes north of Kuching. It is only 810 meters high, but it sits alone in a flat landscape by the sea, so it looks impressive. Up and down will take at least six hours, and at times it can be challenging.
• The Market at Serikan is great if you’re looking to buy clothing or other supplies before you leave the area.  It’s about an hour from the city but only open on the weekends.  The local traffic can be a nightmare.  If you can brave it, the bargains are well worth it.

• Roads in Borneo are rough and driving cross-country can be extremely difficult.  It is a much better, faster and sometimes cheaper alternative to fly - unless of course, you want the experience to be part of your adventure.

• Traveling in Borneo almost always requires a guide.  You can hire a guide in Kuching that will stay with you the entire time, but you will also have to pay for his travel and accommodation.  A better alternative is to hire a guide in each area were you plan to travel.  Book before you arrive and he will meet you at the airport.

So, What are Adventures in Traveling

Going to the same place year after year is not traveling.  It's a vacation, and I would wager the last thing you want from it is an adventure.  Travel, on the other hand, is about broadening your mind and enriching your spirit. It is about giving yourself the opportunity to have experiences outside those to which you have become accustom, and perhaps, to see the world reflected in the eyes of people different from you.

'Adventures in Traveling' is a subjective term.  For some, it may be bungee jumping off a bridge in South Africa or white water rafting on the Zambezi River.  For others, it is far more tame, like a Friday evening dance in Lima, Peru or a jazz concert in New Orleans.  Regardless of where you see yourself on the scale, we all have a common desire to expand our horizons and educate our souls.  Keep this in mind when you plan your travels and I guarantee it will be an adventure.

To this end, here is some free advice.  Take it for what it's worth.

- If you are going somewhere you've never been before, don't be one of those people who think it's uncool to go to the tourist areas.  People go to them for a reason.  Once, you've experienced the highlights for yourself then you can travel off the beaten path.

 

The Blue Mosque Istanbul, Turkey 

in the middle of the tourist quarter

- Never let someone talk you out of going somewhere simple because they've heard stories of robberies and violence.  You should hear the stories they've heard about where you live.

- The longer you can stay in an area the more you will understand it.  As in all things, first impressions can be deceiving.  We once stayed in a small obscure village on the coast of Ecuador for over a month.  Those days remain some of our most precious memories.

 

Village of Muisne, Ecuador

Welcome to My Adventures in Traveling

I admit it.  I have the travel bug and I have it bad.  I've had it my entire life, and for me, it's incurable.  For all those people out there that love to experience other places and ways of life (or simply want to), this site is for you.  In these postings, I want to share travel tips, destinations and adventures.  I want to tell you about the people and places that have made me look at the world from a new perspective.  And, I want to encourage others to share their travel adventures with us.  This is a place to discuss the diversity of the world not high-end hotels and restaurants.  My hope is to build up a collection of places and adventures to inspire the would-be adventurer to get out into the world, and for the seasoned explorer to find his next destination.

Thanks for visiting, and please, come back often.