Adventures in Borneo (Part 1) – Arriving in Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

In the South China Sea covered by lush tropical rainforest sits the Island of Borneo.  Most of the island belongs to Indonesia, but the north (with the exception of Brunei) is part of Malaysia.  The island has beautiful seascapes, Rugged Mountains and lush jungles.  Orangutans, proboscis monkeys, hornbills and jungle elephants are all indigenous species.  It is the home of some of the strangest plant life on the planet, including pitcher plants, orchids and the meter-wide flowers of the Rafflesia. 

Yet for all its beauty and wonder, it is not the paradise we had hoped it would be.  In the more populated areas, there is plenty of rubbish and traffic.  The cities are congested and most of the architecture is neither old-world nor modern.  There are some exceptions, but in the cities, we saw mainly concrete block building covered in worn paint crowded between high-rises. 

 

The Streets of Kuching

My point in telling you this is not to put you off, but rather to paint the complete picture.  Borneo is full of incredible adventures, but like most worthwhile things, you have to go find them.  If you want to visit Borneo, here is some hard-won advice that may help you on your way.

• We have learned over the years that making definite plans for an entire trip was usually a costly mistake, but this time we did it anyway. When we arrived in Kuching, the capital city of Sarawak, jetlagged after flying halfway around the world, we were grateful for the hotel reservation and the opportunity for sleep.  However, the following day, we discovered the streets along the Sarawak River lined with tour companies.  We could have saved a bundle by booking with one of them instead of at home.  My advice is to book a hotel for the first few days, but make all your other travel plans after you arrive.

 

The Sarawak River

• When you have the time, it’s always nice to take the first few days to acclimatize. Around Kuching, there are several day trips worth taking while you’re adjusting.  
• Kubah National Park is about an hour’s drive.  You’ll have to take a cab and the driver will probably want to be your guide, but once there you really don’t need one.  Although, it’s nice to know there’s a cab waiting to return you to the city.  There is a well-marked trail that will take you through a small patch of rainforest, passed a waterfall, and if you’re lucky, by a troop of proboscis monkeys.
• Mount Santubong is about 45 minutes north of Kuching. It is only 810 meters high, but it sits alone in a flat landscape by the sea, so it looks impressive. Up and down will take at least six hours, and at times it can be challenging.
• The Market at Serikan is great if you’re looking to buy clothing or other supplies before you leave the area.  It’s about an hour from the city but only open on the weekends.  The local traffic can be a nightmare.  If you can brave it, the bargains are well worth it.

• Roads in Borneo are rough and driving cross-country can be extremely difficult.  It is a much better, faster and sometimes cheaper alternative to fly - unless of course, you want the experience to be part of your adventure.

• Traveling in Borneo almost always requires a guide.  You can hire a guide in Kuching that will stay with you the entire time, but you will also have to pay for his travel and accommodation.  A better alternative is to hire a guide in each area were you plan to travel.  Book before you arrive and he will meet you at the airport.