Traveling through Southern Africa (Part11) – Twyfelfontein

Twyfelfontein is a rocky sandstone outcrop seated in the Kunene Region of Namibia. The area has one of the largest and most important concentrations of rock art in Africa with some 2000 petroglyphs created over the course of two thousand years (ending around 1000 AD).  Archeologists believe hunter-gathers carved the figures into the boulders of Twyfelfontein as part of their ritualistic activity. The carvings represent rhinoceroses, elephants, ostriches and giraffes, as well as depicting human and animal footprints.

We drove from the small town of Khorixas along some very dusty dirt roads for 90 kilometers to Twyfelfontein.  The desert scenery in the region known as Damaraland is spectacular, and in itself, is worth the drive.  Unexpectedly, we came across an elephant standing in the middle of the road and had a short break while we waited for him to give way.   For me, these little inconveniencies are what make travel in Africa an adventure.

Once at Twyfelfontein, we met a local guide who took us along the well-tended trails through the petroglyphs.  He pointed out the highlights, but he was hard to understand.  All I really got out of his talk was that Twyfelfontein is Afrikaans for doubtful fountain and that a farmer who once homesteaded the area had named it.

Happily, after- wards we were free to roam the area.

The day was bright and hot as most days in the region are.  For the next few hours, we explored the many rock faces and shaded overhangs to discover for ourselves the artworks hidden from plain site.  It was a great insight into how the ecology of the area had changed from bush to desert over the millennia and into the minds of the ancient people that once lived in the area.