It all started when our overland driver and her co-pilot came down with malaria. Without a truck, there was no possibility of moving on, so we settled into a nice backpacker’s lodge while the two recovered in hospital. One evening we met a couple of volunteers from The Netherlands that were looking for ways to bring jobs into the townships. They had struck on the idea of township tours and asked us if we would be guinea pig tourists on their first dry run.
We went into the local market, a hairdressers and a shabeen (a ghetto pub). One woman invited us into her home. Her family built it from tin roofing. Inside, they had covered the walls with old carpets for insulation, and it was complete with pirated electricity to run a small television. Water came from an area well a few blocks away, dug by the city. I apologize for the lack of photographs, but it was inappropriate and somewhat dangerous to have a camera around my neck.

In the end, the experience was an education that brought a new perspective to our travels in Africa.
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